tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-60953076512667748112024-03-04T22:52:53.377-08:00In Karl's LabHighlights some of my science and technology related pursuits, hobbies, and other interests. I've created this blog to showcase my skills and to share knowledge with others. <br><br>
Please check out my companion video site called "Karl's Lab Report" on YouTube.
You can find it here:<br><b>
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/KarlsLabReport">www.youtube.com/user/KarlsLabReport</a> </b>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.comBlogger130125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-8293656531313923412019-06-04T20:01:00.002-07:002019-06-04T20:01:33.876-07:00Communications Options in This Era of Civil Disasters and Internet CensorshipA couple years ago, I wrote a piece on this blog about the use of MESH networks as a means of circumventing communications blackouts resulting from a shutdown of conventional networks by natural disasters or the deliberate actions of ISPs, governments, etc. Tornadoes and earthquakes play havoc with most communications systems other than amateur (HAM) or CB radio, or MESH networks. Furthermore, the problem of governments shutting off or severely restricting Internet access to their citizens for political reasons has NOT gone away since I wrote that earlier piece on MESH networks; if anything, it has become more prevalent. But there ARE workarounds for both the above mentioned situations.</br></br>
While reading the news tonight, I stumbled across the following article:</br>
<a href="https://www.bnnbloomberg.ca/internet-shutdowns-don-t-make-anyone-safer-1.1268141" target ="blank">Internet Shutdowns Don't Make Anyone Safer</a></br></br>
Anyone concerned about emergency communications, freedom and security should seriously research MESH networks, amateur radio, MURS(Multi-Use Radio Service) radio, or any other options that may suit their specific purposes. </br></br>
MESH networks are a form of distributed network that can run on cell phones, tablets, PCs and other wireless-enabled devices - independently of an ISP or other central control. Each device, or node in the network, communicates with multiple neighboring units within its range, allowing for a network that can dynamically reconfigure itself in the event of the failure of a node or nodes. Thus, all the devices in a neighborhood could be configured with the appropriate software to discretely communicate with one another. MESH networks can be confined to a single block or, given enough nodes, can expand to the size of a small town to provide relatively large area communications. If one or more nodes can still access the Internet, it (or they) can share that connection with all the others via the MESH network : ) </br></br>
Such a network can help facilitate emergency communications. Using this technology, news and alerts could be "pushed" to all devices in the network. In the immediate wake of a civil disaster such as a tornado or earthquake, when cell towers and other networks are out of commission, a MESH network could be rapidly deployed among a group of wireless-enabled devices with the appropriate software installed. If the MESH network extends to areas unaffected by the disaster, then access to the Internet is a simple matter, as mentioned above. </br></br>
If wireless options are 'off the table', there's always the old trusty "sneaker net" - whereby people carried and passed files to one another on floppy discs or CD ROMS. Nowadays, this is easier than ever using thumb drives that have tens of gigabytes of storage capacity, are cheap, are reliable, rugged, and are easily stuffed in a pocket. When I was in graduate school, I sometimes used thumb drives to store and transport educational or other home videos I had created - thus saving time uploading or downloading on slow networks. I also didn't have to worry about whether or not I had network access when I wanted to play the video; keeping it on a thumb drive saved laptop hard disc space and/or allowed them to be played on someone else's computer. </br></br>
If one is using radio, discrete communications are certainly possible. Despite the legal prohibitions against using any form of encryption on HAM and other radio services, one can easily prearrange certain phrases to convey sensitive information without compromising it. This is done regularly on open radio channels to address privacy or security issues in situations involving EMS, search and rescue operations, CERT volunteer deployments, etc. </br></br>
Amateur (HAM) radio also supports a number of digital communications modes that can allow one to transmit text or even pictures via amateur radio to another station equipped to receive them. During an emergency, snapping a picture on one's tablet or phone and then transmitting it over the radio would be a fantastic way to rapidly SHOW others the actual conditions one is experiencing. The old adage "a picture is worth a thousand words" certainly applies here. A computer with a sound card (or a tablet) and the appropriate software are all you need - besides the radio - for some of the digital modes available. </br></br>
FWIW. </br></br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-72617171736057476412018-09-14T19:27:00.000-07:002018-09-14T19:48:07.380-07:00A Serious Question for Android and Apple iPad DevelopersThis is a serious question and I'd like a serious, straight answer from someone directly involved in development of Apple iPad/iPhone and Android platforms. </br></br>
I've owned Android phones for several years. I've owned an iPad for a little over a year. I love them both, albeit for different functions. And I use them productively every day. But I also have a major beef with both systems: NEITHER device has a DECENT file manager app for sorting one's photos or other files into folders for organization and quick retrieval. ANY other platform I have ever used - Windows, Mac OX_X, LINUX ALL have decent file manager apps whereby one can create a folder and stuff it with whatever files you need/want in it. That way you do NOT simply have a HUGE folder with every file you have ever created in one huge mess that you have to sort through whenever you want to find a particular file. On my laptop I have folders such as "Lake Cabin Summer 2016", or "Industrial Rectifiers", … that I stored photos to so I can rapidly find them. [Who wants photos taken at your friend's lake house mixed in with industrial rectifiers?] But not so with my Android phone or my iPad. They are all in one HUGE PILE that I have to sort through whenever I want to find one picture. I use the camera on my Android phone on a daily basis at work to document how something is wired or assembled before I tear it down for repair - or for that matter, how it looks when I'm done. I also have pictures on that phone I have taken on family holidays, as well as of stuff I'm doing in my home lab or the work I'm doing restoring an old Chevy truck I recently acquired. </br></br>
What has happened though is that when I want to show somebody a picture of something I did a couple years ago in my home lab, or if I need to pull up something I did weeks or months ago at work, or I want to show a buddy at a social gathering what I've done on my Chevy, I have to thumb through DOZENS or even HUNDREDS of photos I've taken since then to find it. For such an otherwise useful device, this aspect is a royal PAIN to deal with. </br></br>
<b><u>WHY CAN'T you folks give us a simple and usable FILE MANAGER so we can organize the photos we take on our mobile devices???? A simple drag and drop of the photo [or any other file] to a folder of one's own making would help so much. Heck, I'd PAY a few dollars EXTRA for my devices to have this functionality! </u></b>
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Inquiring minds wanna know.
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karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-4358268741054601732018-09-14T19:03:00.002-07:002018-09-14T19:09:36.131-07:00Two Major Windows 10 AnnoyancesIn December of 2016, I bought a HP laptop with Windows 10 on it. One of the things I quickly found out about Windows 10 is that they have removed many of the adjustments or tweaks I used to be able to make. One of these is being able to schedule WHEN or IF an update was applied. This was useful to me for several reasons: One was that I'd usually wait a couple weeks to be sure that whatever update being pushed didn't cause major issues - if it did, at least the "early adopters" found out the hard way rather than me. Another reason I liked being able to set my own schedule is that when I need my computer for writing a major paper for school or doing a report for work, it's awfully nice to NOT have the computer tied up installing an update when I need it. Alas, with this latest version of Windows, Micro$oft decided it knows better than I do when and how I should use my PC. </br></br>
Tonight, I planned to work on some online homework for a college class I am taking. When I opened the laptop, instead of being greeted by my desktop photo and a functioning computer ready to work, I found a green screen with a circle of dots spinning around and the message "Working on Updates 45% Don't turn off your PC. This will take a while". NOT what I needed to see when I'm working on a deadline!! </br></br>
The second thing that I found very annoying is that when I bought this laptop, it was fast - NOT blindingly super fast, but nice. But within 6 months - after a couple minor software updates from Micro$oft, the thing had slowed down A BUNCH. Adding more RAM helped some, as did installing and using a free app called "CC Cleaner". One can do a Google search for this and find it easily. But it still is a pale shadow of what it was when I brought it home that first evening. </br></br>
I originally got this because I needed something less expensive than a $1500 MacBook Air, but I'm thinking I'd sooner make payments on a credit card bill for a MacBook than put up with this nonsense. Even if I forked up $800+ for a better laptop, if it isn't an Apple I'll STILL be putting up with Windows and Micro$oft.</br></br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-145100026661704192018-07-17T06:33:00.001-07:002018-07-17T06:34:53.133-07:00Retrofitting New Window Screens On Restored 'Retro' RV Camper</br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhasr9F8TUbdDQxWL7Y9ErN6W8u4rKnO-YtkFGAzgbqUyJ-A1TBMX50IJABf7_mJ-vO_5Z0YitQ1SnUpgFbGreSBAx_6WVgIFebGE714BSBceRup13NIF-MVI4IhIjKsof2nwEOX-ci3Fvx/s1600/camper_outside.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhasr9F8TUbdDQxWL7Y9ErN6W8u4rKnO-YtkFGAzgbqUyJ-A1TBMX50IJABf7_mJ-vO_5Z0YitQ1SnUpgFbGreSBAx_6WVgIFebGE714BSBceRup13NIF-MVI4IhIjKsof2nwEOX-ci3Fvx/s320/camper_outside.png" width="320" height="253" data-original-width="1054" data-original-height="833" /></a></div>
RV camping is currently enjoying a resurgence in America. Among the thousands of people taking to America's highways in trailers and motor homes in recent times, there is a growing segment of folks who are restoring older units. This is often done for nostalgic reasons and/or to beat the high cost of a new RV. Recently, I got my hands on an online bargain. The camper shown in the photo dates to the early 1970s and was near completely restored by the previous owner. He sold it to me because he has a child and large dog, and now needs a larger RV. There was one issue with this camper: The restoration job did NOT include screens on the windows. And anyone who has been camping knows how troublesome mosquitoes and flies can be. Also, anyone who has camped in an RV knows that if one is camping in an area where power for the air conditioner is not available, it quickly becomes a "sweat box" unless one can open windows for cross ventilation. So window screens are a MUST. </br></br>
This RV presented a unique problem due to the design and construction of its windows. Most RVs I have owned or traveled in have a crank that operates the window. On some, this crank is intelligently positioned into the window frame; in others, there is a small, discrete hole in the screen through which the shaft for the window crank protrudes. In the case of this particular camper, the latches which hold the window glass closed are located directly behind where a window screen would be. Thus, it would be impossible to open and close the window when using a conventional window screen. The next photos show this problem: </br></br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZxaZJO_CBguJTpevrlfGQdpLMbITb4-i6lhAhEuIkpaFgZemdujTf8fsj7Vu_gBc9RbHAEjKSUPmcDg_tqVEx_RHvI3-Z9FInlhTKiXyM76ej1W5-ywTl7nikvFFZoaHr3Hklrr_skVRv/s1600/front_window_B4.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZxaZJO_CBguJTpevrlfGQdpLMbITb4-i6lhAhEuIkpaFgZemdujTf8fsj7Vu_gBc9RbHAEjKSUPmcDg_tqVEx_RHvI3-Z9FInlhTKiXyM76ej1W5-ywTl7nikvFFZoaHr3Hklrr_skVRv/s320/front_window_B4.png" width="320" height="213" data-original-width="1286" data-original-height="855" /></a></div></br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_juAbO-LcnAeR4Y262-OS0DPk8EwabppX-fF2XWm7ZCG2wM8YXeD2RxLvas80DqKe82YxCcQi3qpzbPSWQCVxDfkGLk_fSFm7J2QOVdn4JJ1DUAr_O-g4YdtNpZuxZhyphenhyphenoxqHmFPRQPeD/s1600/front_latches.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_juAbO-LcnAeR4Y262-OS0DPk8EwabppX-fF2XWm7ZCG2wM8YXeD2RxLvas80DqKe82YxCcQi3qpzbPSWQCVxDfkGLk_fSFm7J2QOVdn4JJ1DUAr_O-g4YdtNpZuxZhyphenhyphenoxqHmFPRQPeD/s320/front_latches.png" width="320" height="213" data-original-width="1286" data-original-height="855" /></a></div></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br>
I came up with my own novel engineering solution. I'm not saying this is necessarily the best or only solution, but it is what I came up with and it works. My approach was to have an immovable section of screen in the middle of the window, between the bottom latches, with movable screens resembling shutters on either side to allow access to the window latches. The next photo shows my completed installation:</br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixXpmJTCKJcYM2J9mEORrHoIXshPqV7dwG5Wqm3TEOs4xqkWC2YwMV7B9YKh2y11dpLbQQzatH624H3Sv1BsBcBXlZvTRsngIfhH3GQHF7mvr4Aeehhi9as_mdAnNlAbHKEj7MLlomN_4m/s1600/Front_window_with_screen.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixXpmJTCKJcYM2J9mEORrHoIXshPqV7dwG5Wqm3TEOs4xqkWC2YwMV7B9YKh2y11dpLbQQzatH624H3Sv1BsBcBXlZvTRsngIfhH3GQHF7mvr4Aeehhi9as_mdAnNlAbHKEj7MLlomN_4m/s320/Front_window_with_screen.png" width="320" height="213" data-original-width="1286" data-original-height="855" /></a></div>
When I first installed this, I realized that despite considerable care in minimizing the gap between the movable and fixed screens, that gap was still wide enough to potentially allow mosquitoes and other "no-seeum"type insects to get in. So I used an outdoor-rated duct tape to seal this opening. This can be seen in the next three photos: </br></br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgT4G9dECfer8s7rVj22RhhEIM0qwF3ZrQ_HkgFUKzbQKxdMfAm_ZwD7D-HRlmdNm57V8w5yhbu71T8Qw7n76Nopoi6-jnevET_RK8W8SdzGML5174CRVQVRS3x2eeTXCacfLdEM1p0jD3/s1600/screen_gap.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgT4G9dECfer8s7rVj22RhhEIM0qwF3ZrQ_HkgFUKzbQKxdMfAm_ZwD7D-HRlmdNm57V8w5yhbu71T8Qw7n76Nopoi6-jnevET_RK8W8SdzGML5174CRVQVRS3x2eeTXCacfLdEM1p0jD3/s320/screen_gap.png" width="320" height="213" data-original-width="1286" data-original-height="855" /></a></div></br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoF1kEKTrEvFHhw0llk0virg5yUzM8JDdtm7-DIpcwQkhyGJKsSo4zmYwpVIuPqyu5iXo7iUQVlrAPXAD9y4Fm4sE_hj_D_C6DJdyrUNYRoClBNWuRAdq54jL_znKfxUtGcZcM7n6NA8YB/s1600/taped_gap.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoF1kEKTrEvFHhw0llk0virg5yUzM8JDdtm7-DIpcwQkhyGJKsSo4zmYwpVIuPqyu5iXo7iUQVlrAPXAD9y4Fm4sE_hj_D_C6DJdyrUNYRoClBNWuRAdq54jL_znKfxUtGcZcM7n6NA8YB/s320/taped_gap.png" width="213" height="320" data-original-width="854" data-original-height="1286" /></a></div></br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9P3c4TxO4Zpr7GmLYEZ-0wi7LUB87tnI8gkZJVexLXbkpTbdatQP6GoIPFw49hxgQwF2DsxqafnQ5Rns8uXz8J8E0Yx7uOU6JrPSOA0K07wkYmJ4HBOycwsPijsCmzI1cKiQ0AnVi4R-h/s1600/applying+tape.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9P3c4TxO4Zpr7GmLYEZ-0wi7LUB87tnI8gkZJVexLXbkpTbdatQP6GoIPFw49hxgQwF2DsxqafnQ5Rns8uXz8J8E0Yx7uOU6JrPSOA0K07wkYmJ4HBOycwsPijsCmzI1cKiQ0AnVi4R-h/s320/applying+tape.png" width="320" height="213" data-original-width="1286" data-original-height="855" /></a></div></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br>
To some folks, the tape scheme might seem a bit "hillbilly", but it was inexpensive; I had it lying around, and it is certainly easy enough to fix if/when needed. And finally, the next two pictures show how it operates:</br></br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwtUzzWJwQ86f9U67bDBYdu9v4sNa8gnSUJGtfndr9BgSlYh7XdoNiXPZ_u_gkz4KUDBbUqLZj_vMVt9DN6_0gXJgtTNhKGVpQVaVxZ_FFKjXoYzPMppocDJ5F1eoPDZrGeLNq6u33u_W/s1600/operating+screen.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwtUzzWJwQ86f9U67bDBYdu9v4sNa8gnSUJGtfndr9BgSlYh7XdoNiXPZ_u_gkz4KUDBbUqLZj_vMVt9DN6_0gXJgtTNhKGVpQVaVxZ_FFKjXoYzPMppocDJ5F1eoPDZrGeLNq6u33u_W/s320/operating+screen.png" width="320" height="213" data-original-width="1286" data-original-height="855" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2EbgvOapQDj-0I1jO1V96vpJWd2N81lszLBpZe_yUen1sSVq7a6rRLM39_2zlsOWf_jF4yJSdVe3lUbVitwiLHFOEnu1U8_ykY1uk9f-3-9e2q4hADkOwgQ5YlF_N5-p95NO7tSmuQKs/s1600/operating_latch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2EbgvOapQDj-0I1jO1V96vpJWd2N81lszLBpZe_yUen1sSVq7a6rRLM39_2zlsOWf_jF4yJSdVe3lUbVitwiLHFOEnu1U8_ykY1uk9f-3-9e2q4hADkOwgQ5YlF_N5-p95NO7tSmuQKs/s320/operating_latch.png" width="320" height="213" data-original-width="1286" data-original-height="855" /></a></div></br></br>
I hope this helps someone restoring an older RV or at least gives them ideas for a workaround. </br></br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-20706524201452852242018-07-16T19:19:00.001-07:002018-07-16T19:26:07.571-07:00This Is The Stuff Nightmares Are Made Of</br>
An article came out today in the Idaho Statesman that enumerates various incidents where the US government has LOST weapons grade nuclear materials. According to the article, "since the cold war ... 6 TONS of bomb materials have gone MUF", meaning "material unaccounted for". The article goes on to say that some of this "may be stuck in pipes at processing facilities, etc." so just because it is unaccounted for does NOT necessarily mean that 6 tons were stolen. </br></br>
That said, the article starts off mentioning some samples of material that WERE recently stolen from a rented SUV that was being used by "two security experts from the Department of Energy's Idaho National Laboratory." While these samples were NOT sufficient quantity to make a nuclear weapon, it bespeaks of a lack of security in the handling of such materials. </br></br>
<a href="http:/www.idahostatesman.com/news/northwest/idaho/article214731995.html" target = "_blank">Idaho Statesman Article</a>
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But knowing that there are 6 TONS of nuclear material - much of it weapons grade - that are MISSING or unaccounted for, does NOT leave one feeling "warm and fuzzy". This is theoretically enough to "make hundreds of nuclear explosives', according to the article. Also, according to the article, an amount of plutonium the size of a grapefruit is sufficient to produce a bomb. </br></br>
Think terrorist bomb, 'dirty bomb', possible EMP weapon, etc. SCARY!!!
</br></br> karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-87294558922170580702018-06-25T16:27:00.003-07:002018-06-25T16:39:26.202-07:00Help In Preparing For Emergency/Austere Medical Situations - A Shout Out To A Fellow YouTuber</br>
Folks who read my last post know I got my EMT-Basic certification about a year ago. But I didn't stop there. </br></br>
In my constant effort to be more prepared for whatever comes, and to be of help to my family, friends, neighbors and colleagues, I took some additional seminars dealing with emergency medicine in an "austere" setting. What do I mean by "austere"? My EMT training was primarily geared toward helping the patient stay alive, and preventing further injury, until they could get to the hospital. This is all well and good, and works in most situations. But what about a massive grid down situation? Or another hurricane Katrina, where massive flooding prevents rescue workers from getting to you in a timely manner? Those situations can be termed "austere", because doctors, nurses and hospital care may NOT be readily available - for some time, if at all. A fellow YouTuber comes to the rescue for these scenarios. </br></br>
There is a Registered Nurse (RN) who maintains a YouTube channel called "The Patriot Nurse". If you go back and search through her videos, you will find she has posted lots of valuable medical information - as well as some at times brutally frank, politically oriented ones. I'm NOT here to debate politics or to comment one way or the other on the merit of the political stances expressed in some of her YouTube and Patreon videos - THAT is for another blog. I will NOT address or render comments on politics or take sides here in this forum. BUT the FREE MEDICAL information she provides in some of her videos is <b>outstanding</b> and is of concern and potentially helpful to all of us - regardless of one's religious or political persuasion. Additionally, she offers a series of paid seminars called "Medical Prep 101, Medical Prep 201, and Medical Prep 301. </br></br>
My adult step daughter and I took all three of the medical prep classes several months after I got my EMT-Basic patch. So I had some background with which to evaluate the course content. <b><u>In short, I think the classes are EXCELLENT - especially for laypersons, or even people with a "nurse's aide" level of training. There was another EMT there besides myself; we both thought it was a good review as well as offering certain valuable info that we DON'T normally get through EMT training and continuing education. </u></b> To follow is a very brief synopsis of what you get during the classes:
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<u>Medical Prep 101 and 201</u> - covers all major aspects of first aid, diseases one is likely to encounter now or during a disaster, and also offers frank discussion of how quickly medical care deteriorates when infrastructure is damaged or destroyed. She comes from a background of having been a nurse in 3rd world countries where the facilities and technology we take for granted are at times severely lacking. Video presentations and a course notebook she provides augment the lecture and hands-on exercises. A question and answer period after each "chapter" or section gives ample opportunity for students to get their questions answered, as well as for class discussion that can be quite informative. </br></br>
<u>Medical Prep 301</u> - briefly recaps some material covered in Medical Prep 101 and 201, then offers excellent coverage dealing with new and re-emerging old diseases which bear watching now, and which can quickly become problematic during a disaster. She presented good information about the rise of antibiotic resistant bacteria, ebola, plague, tic-borne diseases and other potential threats - diseases that can in themselves trigger a major disaster. Exctensive coverage is given to nutritional and holistic approaches to maintaining health as well as helping the body's own defenses and systems fight back and heal from a disease or injury. Issues such as maintaining adequate sanitation when water and sewer utilities are damaged/destroyed are discussed at length and are a topic EVERYONE should know and be equipped to deal with. </br></br>
Other topics include feminine hygiene, childbirth, preventing (and recognizing) STDs. </br></br>
Much of the information she presented dovetailed nicely with my prior EMT training. After all, emergency medicine is emergency medicine. However, FOR ME, the true value I found in it was the viewpoint or "angle" the material was presented from. As stated earlier, all of my prior training was STRICTLY geared toward pre-hospital care during "normal" times in "normal" circumstances. Her presentation is more akin to what is given in Hesperian.org's book titled "Where There Is No Doctor". But UNLIKE reading Hesperian's book - which I DO recommend - The Patriot Nurse offers the hands-on experiences, the classroom interaction and question-answer opportunities one does NOT get from reading a book. </br></br>
And As I mentioned earlier, these classes are a superb primer for those with little medical knowledge, yet contain enough solid information to arm even those folks to contribute meaningfully to helping during a disaster or grid down scenario. The information that my step daughter has gotten from Patriot Nurse's Medical Prep seminars has also helped empower her in terms of knowing what to do in a medical emergency. </br></br>
And what is wonderful about knowledge is it is one thing that cannot be taken away from you. FWIW. </br></br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-57317882551459592142018-06-25T14:55:00.001-07:002018-06-25T14:56:32.435-07:00EMT-Basic Course; Good, Basic Preparation For Medical Emergencies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgefMIDNZbUzeQ0PbGvaUxKMoteiDy7PvXMxAcQeETWqNURjF61cJ76qxFDfdcqkdQ4OpCJnCP30phpDs73GxND2WMrdBhQDCJqeTyGsEFRhhW3H5Kp1URceMStTZOROLd5OT2XyjeuaRTx/s1600/EMT_Patch_resize.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgefMIDNZbUzeQ0PbGvaUxKMoteiDy7PvXMxAcQeETWqNURjF61cJ76qxFDfdcqkdQ4OpCJnCP30phpDs73GxND2WMrdBhQDCJqeTyGsEFRhhW3H5Kp1URceMStTZOROLd5OT2XyjeuaRTx/s320/EMT_Patch_resize.png" width="320" height="300" data-original-width="1249" data-original-height="1172" /></a></div></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br></br>
Readers of this blog know that as an emergency volunteer, I take basic, common sense preparedness quite seriously. I have published articles on this blog about emergency communications using amateur (HAM) radio as well as by other means when power, Internet and phones (cellular included) <i><b>inevitably fail </b></i> during disasters such as tornadoes, hurricanes, etc. MANY "prepper" oriented folks forget the "band-aids" part of the "beans, bullets and band-aids" equation. As a nurse's aide as well as in my emergency volunteer training, I have had plenty of "first aid" training. But a situation at work a year or so back where an office girl passed out, as well as my step daughter falling and injuring her ankle, raised some serious questions in my mind about the real value of the training I had. <b><u>I decided to do something about it</u></b>. A buddy of mine, who is an RN at a major hospital, suggested I go for EMT-Basic training. He proposed it because it would be the less expensive option - both in terms of money and time, and that it "would still put me way ahead of the typical layperson" in an emergency. I did considerable research, and indeed ended up getting my EMT-Basic patch as of Summer 2017, and also have taken some additional training in "austere" medicine. I'll discuss the austere medicine training in another post. </br></br>
There are several levels of EMT: EMT-Basic, EMT-Intermediate (in some jurisdictions), and EMT-Paramedic. EMTs are registered with the National Registry of EMTs (NREMT - as shown on the patch in the above photo) as well as at the state level. EMTs generally work for fire departments, but some also work for private ambulance services and in hospital emergency rooms and ICUs (Intensive Care Units). </br></br>
<b><u>I think of EMT-Basic as "first aid on steroids"</u></b>. EMT-Basic focuses on the "ABCs" - airway, breathing, circulation - as well as delves into performing assessments on a patient to determine how much of an emergency it truly is. In other words, <u>"is the patient going to die or otherwise suffer grievous injury within 10 minutes unless immediate intervention is given, or can they wait an hour or so while one gets them to the hospital</u>?" Or is a hospital visit even needed? In addressing the "ABCs", the EMT verifies the patient has an open (or patent) airway, controls/stops any serious bleeding, and makes sure the heart is pumping adequately. If breathing and heart function is not sufficient or gone entirely, then high quality CPR is started. EMT-Basics can insert certain devices such as a "King" airway, an oropharyngeal (OP) or nasopharyngeal (NP) airway to help a patient whose own airway is collapsed. The EMT will administer spinal stabilization to protect the spinal cord from (further) damage, place a "C-collar" (short for cervical collar) on the patient in the event of possible neck injuries, as needed. Splinting of bones, safe moving and transport of patients, safe extrication of patients - such as from a wrecked vehicle or a structure collapse, are also covered. Medical assessment skills for determining if a patient is in shock, is having a possible stroke or heart attack, is having a diabetic or hypoglycemic issue, etc. are emphasized. We also covered mass casualty incidents, terrorist situations, biological/chemical hazards, plant poisons, insect stings and snake bites, water emergencies such as from boating accidents, burns, electric shock, etc. </br></br>
EMT-Basic training generally takes 4-5 months; exact number of class hours vary as per jurisdiction. We had a certain quota of clinical hours we spent on ambulance ride-alongs and in hospital ER situations. Part of the ER time dealt with adults in a regular hospital and part of the time was in a pediatric ER. This was very important, as children are NOT merely miniatures of adults; there ARE some different considerations in treating a child. My training took 4 months and cost about $1500 for everything - tuition, books, mandatory drug testing, the NREMT exam, ... </br></br>
<b><u>EMT-Intermediate</u></b> is somewhat of a gray area. Not every state has this classification. But generally it is EMT-Basic with some Paramedic skills thrown in. EMT-Intermediates are sometimes allowed to give injections, do EKGs (electrocardiograms), and certain other things associated with Paramedics. </br></br>
<b><u>EMT-Paramedics</u></b> do ALL the above PLUS can give injections of certain medications, run EKGs, intubate patients - meaning insert endo tracheal airways, and generally need a year or sometimes more of classroom training. The requirements on clinical hours are far more stringent as well. Cost may be anywhere between $5000 - $10,000 for the training. </br></br></br>
Reading this, you may be saying to yourself "That's great, Karl. What does this have to do with me?" Quite possibly, PLENTY. If you are an outdoors person, canoe/kayak paddler, backpacker, shoot archery or firearms, camp, etc.; ALL these sorts of activities can place you in situations where YOU or whoever you are with ARE the "first responder(s)" available. Ambulances and paramedics may be HOURS away. If you are caught up in a natural disaster such as a hurricane, tornado, flooding, severe snowstorm, etc. you may also find yourself dealing with injuries or other medical situations on your own for some period of time UNTIL someone else can get to you. And if it is a man-made disaster, depending on the nature of that, all bets for finding another EMT,a doctor, nurse or hospital may be off. </br></br>
On a more mundane level, what if a family member or friend suddenly gets hurt, or goes into cardiac arrest? In the latter situation, SECONDS COUNT! The SOONER high quality CPR is started, statistically the BETTER THE OUTCOME. Those several minutes while waiting for the ambulance can be spent performing CPR, stopping blood loss - or otherwise improving your loved one's chances of survival. And back to my step daughter's ankle for a minute - knowing how to perform an assessment of a traumatic injury can help determine "do we simply put ice on it, have her take an ibuprofen and stay OFF the foot, and reevaluate in the morning, OR is it truly ER time?" </br></br>
THINK about this: Avoiding the cost of ONE unneeded ER visit could PAY FOR THE TRAINING. </br></br>
FWIW </br></br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-86746098069467950482018-06-25T13:25:00.003-07:002018-06-25T13:27:14.781-07:00Book Review - "EMP Attacks and Solar Storms" An Excellent Resource on the Topic</br></br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsv_yOwK8CdC3YeCV7-n-7S10GKMCu05wJvC7XKyOS9l1BjmTXd0OAcVDPS0NFssbA0EjtDku9sIIMY7dbEHBE7qW3QqRm3OOgCTg8UdQ4foJq9V5xLfIj2dddhgIg_Z7gnsr2g5yU9ywl/s1600/EMP_Book_resize.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsv_yOwK8CdC3YeCV7-n-7S10GKMCu05wJvC7XKyOS9l1BjmTXd0OAcVDPS0NFssbA0EjtDku9sIIMY7dbEHBE7qW3QqRm3OOgCTg8UdQ4foJq9V5xLfIj2dddhgIg_Z7gnsr2g5yU9ywl/s320/EMP_Book_resize.png" width="213" height="320" data-original-width="888" data-original-height="1337" /></a></div>
Many of us have heard about "EMP", or Electromagnetic Pulse, and what it could theoretically do to our power grid, our appliances, personal electronics and possibly even our cars. An EMP event could shut down the power grid and thus interrupt communications, food and fuel distribution, transportation systems, hospitals, emergency response, etc. for MONTHS or even YEARS. To complicate matters, the transformers that are the backbone of our nation's power grid are huge monstrosities that are no longer made in the United States. These are a special order item that could take anywhere from a year to two years to order, have produced and shipped here. And of course, without a functioning power grid, getting all this done would be problematic. Department of Homeland Security Secretary Janet Napolitano, during her fare well speech, said "it is not a matter of IF, it is a matter of WHEN we have a collapse of the power grid". Her warning was specifically in reference to a <b><i>cyber attack</i></b>, NOT an EMP, but NASA has also issued warnings about the danger posed by large solar flares causing an EMP. Some sources estimate that a major EMP incident could <b><u>potentially kill off up to 90% of the US population within one year!</u></b> It is believed by some folks in government that regimes such as Iran, North Korea, and even Russia have done research and development into the sorts of weapons needed to produce large, destructive EMP events. Clearly, this is a subject that should concern us all, but even in this era of instant access to information, getting the straight facts is not as easy as one might think. There is much written on the Internet about this subject, but much of it is vague or just plain inaccurate. </br></br>
Fortunately, there is a go-to guide for those wanting good, accurate information so they may learn the truth and/or take intelligent steps to protect their equipment - and potentially the lives of their families and themselves. </br></br>
The book is "Disaster Preparedness For EMP Attacks and Solar Storms", by Arthur T. Bradley, Ph.D. The copy I own is dated 2012, and is the 'expanded edition'. ISBN 13 number 978-1278376651; Library of Congress control number 2012914769</br></br>
In his book, Bradley covers both man made EMP events caused by rogue governments or terrorists, as well as details how a solar EMP could happen. He explains that there are considerable differences in the <i>type</i> of EMP produced from each of these sources. For example, a naturally occurring EMP due to a solar event consists primarily of lower frequency radio waves that would not couple efficiently into small electronics - such as your iPad, a digital watch, or the amateur (HAM) radio I have sitting on the table, UNPLUGGED from any power or antenna when I'm not actively using it. So such devices - and even your car - likely would come through a naturally produced EMP event in usable condition. Things like the electrical grid, items PLUGGED IN when the EMP hit, telephone lines, etc. WOULD LIKELY be damaged or destroyed. </br></br>
A man made nuclear generated EMP, or one generated by a HEMP (High Energy Magnetic Pulse) weapon, on the other hand, COULD damage/destroy small electronics because of the higher radio frequencies and power levels produced by such weapons. While equipment and even vehicles CAN be protected in event of a man made EMP, such protections would necessarily have to be more carefully constructed and more thorough because of the nature of the <i>type</i> of EMP involved. Emergency volunteers such as myself, as well as anyone trying to prepare for ANY reason, need to give due consideration to this and prepare accordingly. </br></br>
Bradley gives detailed scientific and engineering data, along with clearly written explanations, that greatly help demystify EMP. He then details what to expect during and after the event, and most importantly, what an individual can do to deal with it. <br></br>
"Disaster Preparedness For EMP Attacks and Solar Storms" is a must-have reference guide for engineers, emergency responders, military personnel, planners, preppers, and anyone else interested in getting <b><u>real information</u></b> (NOT someone's fantasy or personal opinions) about this issue. </br></br>
Hopefully this information will help some folks to gain real, useful knowledge and make intelligent, informed choices. </br></br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-17851122191557164252017-06-27T20:27:00.001-07:002017-06-27T21:01:14.162-07:00Off Grid Power - Lessons Learned During a Recent Power FailureReaders of my blog will remember the <a href="http://inkarlslab.blogspot.com/2016/01/mobile-battery-cart-update.html" target="blank">Battery Cart </a> posts dealing with an off-grid power supply of my own design and construction. A few weeks ago, we had a windstorm which knocked out the mains power in my area for several hours. During that time, I was able to test the capabilities of my power supply. To follow are findings and lessons learned: <br><br>
1) The <a href="http://inkarlslab.blogspot.com/2016/01/mobile-battery-cart-update.html" target ="blank">Battery Cart </a> worked as intended - maintaining some lights, operating radio and computer gear, and keeping my Internet modem energized. <br> <br>
2) My Internet Service Provider does NOT provide emergency power for its network. While my battery system performed admirably in keeping the equipment on MY END operating, I had no Internet service through my ISP. I had to rely on a "wireless hotspot" cellular modem to use the Internet. It was through the cell modem I was able to get online to learn of how widespread the outage actually was. <br><br>
3) I have ANOTHER pair of batteries in the basement to power the sump pump during an outage. And while the inverter I had SUPPOSEDLY could in theory run the sump pump, it was NOT able to start the sump pump in reality. I had NOT actually tested this before the power failure because I hadn't had the inverter that long. Note to self: GET an inverter that WILL run the sump pump - or risk having a flooded basement during a REAL emergency. I purchased a new, heavier duty inverter which came in the mail a few days ago. It needs to be tested ASAP. <br><br>
4) "Op-Sec", or operations security. My next door neighbor came over and asked me if I knew what happened with the power - AND how it was I still had power. From outside, as it was getting toward dusk, he saw my ONE work light shining through the living room blinds. Silently, I pointed to the green battery cart sitting next to my work table. He replied "Oh my God, I forgot you had that big battery!" The point of this is that others WILL notice if you are running lights, or your TV, and WILL investigate to see how you are lit up when the other houses are dark. This could be a serious security breach during a prolonged crisis. Note to self: Have some tarps, thick sheets, blankets, whatever as "black-out drapes" if you are going to use lighting inside during early morning/evening or nighttime hours. Likewise, keeping the ham/shortwave radio or any music turned down would be a wise suggestion - don't attract unwanted attention to yourself by running your stereo loud enough for passersby or neighbors to hear. <br><br>
5) "IP Phones". I already knew this, but if you have an "internet phone" such as provided through "AT&T U-verse" or Time Warner's Cable voice service, you will very likely lose your phone service during a power failure for the same reason I lost my regular Internet service - see point #2 above. These new "IP Phone systems" are NOT like the old POTS [Plain Ol' Telephone Service] lines of old that DID stay up for a time during power outages. Having a cell phone as a backup, even if you normally use a wired "house phone", is important. My elderly mom learned this the hard way when SHE lost her power and the UPS that ran the "AT&T U-Verse box" failed after 30 minutes. I don't know whether or not this has changed from a year ago, but when my mom got her IP Phone system, AT&T did NOT even offer a backup battery in their units!! <br><br>
6) TEST your equipment REGULARLY! I can't stress this enough. Exercising your equipment regularly will familiarize you with its use, its strengths and weaknesses, and also will quite likely reveal maintenance issues BEFORE they become a show-stopper during "the real deal". <br><br>
Anyway, I hope these pointers help someone. <br>karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-85273262690112508592016-05-22T20:20:00.002-07:002016-05-22T20:20:38.995-07:00Solar Power Plus Off-Grid Battery System: Putting It All Together<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yR2BS1YOYV0M7OLAhz76UoSgk6Wdp_pVp-1ldkqFSILFvbjvFb6fPZh5vq8o65JB4mpOwo8F9BJChSyAhL90le4AQchch0kxMiJucGUVrc-KCvOHyuoqbTY7qEz7VegMPP4tmdUZJlTf/s1600/solar_panel.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yR2BS1YOYV0M7OLAhz76UoSgk6Wdp_pVp-1ldkqFSILFvbjvFb6fPZh5vq8o65JB4mpOwo8F9BJChSyAhL90le4AQchch0kxMiJucGUVrc-KCvOHyuoqbTY7qEz7VegMPP4tmdUZJlTf/s320/solar_panel.png" /></a></div>
Readers familiar with my Off-Grid Mobile Battery cart will remember my writing about my plans to use solar panels to recharge the batteries. Reference <a href="http://inkarlslab.blogspot.com/2015/06/off-grid-mobile-power-supply-aka.html">Off-Grid Mobile Power Supply</a> and <a href="http://inkarlslab.blogspot.com/2016/01/mobile-battery-cart-update.html">Mobile Battery Cart Update</a> for full background information. Over the past few months I have obtained a pair of brand new 100 watt solar panels from a supplier on eBay. I recently ordered the second panel and got it in the mail this week. I took advantage of the sunny weather and a breather from work today to test the panel "live" with the battery cart. <br><br>
These 100 Watt panels each come with a pair of 10-15 foot long 14 mm cables and a charge controller. That is NOT a bad deal for $140 apiece!! Even ignoring the cost of the cables and controller, that comes to $1.40 per watt. Additional panels can be purchased without the controller for closer to $125. That said, any solar power system needs a charge controller to ensure the batteries aren't overcharged during full sun. <br><br>
I figured I'd need about 300 - 400 Watts worth of solar panel capacity to really handle these 220 ampere hour batteries. As of now I have a pair of 100 Watt solar panels, though I'm just testing the one I got this week. <br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0mYjBz9BXesf8uaKVv4gqaB6pbeRnjJZuybFCYQ_gsNW3KWA5fPNXjJKA-0uEvguDssQbYchoIKxqkync7Wv70e-X88NiWJ5ap3CZ41O0j5CVGh9kWj-vkf5Oj3rWqiwYxipvBeFPVQPd/s1600/battery_on_charge.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0mYjBz9BXesf8uaKVv4gqaB6pbeRnjJZuybFCYQ_gsNW3KWA5fPNXjJKA-0uEvguDssQbYchoIKxqkync7Wv70e-X88NiWJ5ap3CZ41O0j5CVGh9kWj-vkf5Oj3rWqiwYxipvBeFPVQPd/s320/battery_on_charge.png" /></a></div>
To run a quick test, I temporarily connected the whole mess up to the battery cart with some alligator clips, then arranged the panel on my front porch with the cables running through the front doorway back into my living room. I believe the charge controller may have issues, as it was only allowing about 2.5 amperes through even with a heavy load connected to the battery and a terminal voltage of 12.58 volts. I disconnected the charge controller and just connected the panel straight and got plenty of current, as the meters in the photo reveal. The orange meter is reading the current in amperes; the gray one is reading the voltage. At one point I did see the rated 5 amps these panels produce. Clearly, I need to address the charge controller issue, because at 4+ amps for ONE panel with a battery voltage of 15 volts, I'd quickly cook these batteries if I ran without one for long! <br><br>
Stay tuned for future testing of the system with both panels : ) <br><br>karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-65141644096336498892016-01-21T16:35:00.006-08:002016-01-21T16:36:34.711-08:00A Real-Life Example of Why Materials Quality Is Important<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKBtQkd4mEPQwOfIS80eG-FazJgNTmHTGkM_IDFZLOuhGFkWSET6RNCj9ZThlqDVQ9e_SsJvsBcR4pL0zS8wnqkyaW76GnE0Ps4afB6FnSdgwKMjUDKYlPE82B-VjVetQV7f6bR6j4ByI3/s1600/Truck_blend_01192016_resize.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKBtQkd4mEPQwOfIS80eG-FazJgNTmHTGkM_IDFZLOuhGFkWSET6RNCj9ZThlqDVQ9e_SsJvsBcR4pL0zS8wnqkyaW76GnE0Ps4afB6FnSdgwKMjUDKYlPE82B-VjVetQV7f6bR6j4ByI3/s320/Truck_blend_01192016_resize.png" /></a></div>
Last Summer, I replaced both of the front stabilizer links in my pickup truck. At that time, the rubber bushings were disintegrating. One of the links had actually broken due to hitting a particularly large pothole. I thought, barring another large pothole, this would be the last time I'd be dealing with that for at least a couple years. Alas, that was not the case. </br></br>
A couple days ago, I was driving and heard a clunk, followed by some pinging noises. Upon looking in the rear-view mirror, I noticed a rod-shaped item bouncing in the roadway and thought I must have driven over some trash in the road. A few minutes later, I heard more noises and saw more objects rolling around in the road behind me. I also noticed the handling was suddenly really "loose". Then I realized these were coming off my truck and were NOT stuff already in the road. I pulled off at the nearest gas station and, upon peering under my vehicle, found the situation shown in the stitched photo of both the left and right front suspension. Note the missing parts in the right-hand side of the picture v.s. the left. Fortunately the part that broke was NOT a life-or-death critical component - but this was unnerving nonetheless. Also extremely annoying is the fact I had replaced these parts less than 7,000 miles/6 months ago - and certainly did NOT plan on doing this in 15 degree weather. </br></br>
While I bought these parts at a legitimate auto parts store, my guess is there was a flaw in the metal - perhaps a void - that created a weak spot which just happened to fail at that time.</br></br>
The following day, I showed these pictures in class to my Applied Engineering students as an object lesson in why manufacturing quality is important and the possible real-life consequences of product failures. Judging from their reactions, I think the point was made and got across to one and all. </br></br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-5603442420696372962016-01-01T16:33:00.002-08:002016-01-01T16:43:38.097-08:00Portable Battery Supply<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCdjIO3dymwuYZWGY1SsLcbD6Pq7lqniUxwukG6WKuWov53aXQhqHSCQ0tmehdDkDoZuRHsOM3phfRHtGO5cMN3i-cjOGX9JKAx1X9Y8HzDtJV7WDvs3YF49IAjmsaJgx8sU9Jv1a6k3aW/s1600/portable_battery_case.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCdjIO3dymwuYZWGY1SsLcbD6Pq7lqniUxwukG6WKuWov53aXQhqHSCQ0tmehdDkDoZuRHsOM3phfRHtGO5cMN3i-cjOGX9JKAx1X9Y8HzDtJV7WDvs3YF49IAjmsaJgx8sU9Jv1a6k3aW/s320/portable_battery_case.png" /></a></div>
Readers of this blog will no doubt remember the "Mobile Battery Cart" - indeed the post before this one is a short update on that. For some time I have been thinking of a portable unit I could take in the car, on a bike/motorcycle, or even pack in a suitcase for travel. <a href="http://www.portableuniversalpower.com/" target="_blank">Hardened Power Systems</a> makes a particularly elegant system they call their "Juice Box" that is built into a US Army ammo can and is waterproof when the lid is closed. It features a 30 amp-hour lithium ion battery, digital voltmeter, USB output ports, Anderson power pole connectors, an integral power inverter as well as a 12 volt "lighter" socket. It's a sweet system - the main issue with this is at $580 it is well beyond my budget. But ... all is not lost. <br><br>
At the battery shop where I work part-time, we recently scrapped out a small "MAC" type (NOT related to Macintosh computers) battery charger. The case was quite pitted with oxidation and even though it was otherwise in good condition, the boss said it wasn't worth keeping. So I asked for it, explaining what I wanted to do with it, and he kindly gave it to me. See the top photo. It has a handle on the top and plenty of room inside for two 12 volt/7 or 9 amp-hour SLA or AGM type batteries. There is room inside for a low voltage cutout board like I built into the mobile battery cart, a digital panel-mount voltmeter from eBay, a solar charge controller and perhaps a small power inverter in the 100-200 watt range. <br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGl4FHI1mziaYabo0EHd9FNR7i51u27dxVxoCJt1zEbaHNN-8qpBh-ovNPRx153d1oaXnTek-VhogpWLzI76zb3QBNOl_k64czFGeFsacwyJ0466Lv0i80L-1To7baeTEmmVYRGkMcdoj_/s1600/portable_battery_case2.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGl4FHI1mziaYabo0EHd9FNR7i51u27dxVxoCJt1zEbaHNN-8qpBh-ovNPRx153d1oaXnTek-VhogpWLzI76zb3QBNOl_k64czFGeFsacwyJ0466Lv0i80L-1To7baeTEmmVYRGkMcdoj_/s320/portable_battery_case2.png" /></a></div>
The second photo shows it open with two AGM type batteries sitting inside. Note the rust and corrosion on the inside metal transformer support rails as well as on the "feet". I'll sand and treat those areas with rust remover solution, then I'll sand the whole box with fine grit sandpaper, then paint it inside and out with car engine enamel. I've used that before on past projects and gotten excellent results in terms of looks and durability. Obviously I'll need a front panel made of aluminum or plastic to cover the holes in the existing panel. <br><br>
Some 5-way binding posts on the front panel might be useful, too. <br><br>
Once built, my 5-watt solar panel should be able to keep this charged when traveling or during emergencies. A unit like this could charge cell phones, maintain LED lighting, or power my VHF radio and/or a portable shortwave radio for considerable time on a charge. While it is NOT a "juice box", it will serve the purpose well enough for me - and at a fraction of the price. I'll try to post updates of this project as it proceeds. <br><br>
I hope this gives readers some ideas for solving their own portable or backup power issues. Please feel free to write back with your own ideas!! <br><br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-83668170891709880282016-01-01T14:56:00.000-08:002016-01-01T14:56:01.938-08:00Mobile Battery Cart - Update<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVqN6HPF5hh9oq5o5jjwg_ZGaVeOspqiijXaOwOhknqpfQLC3fboYxlExM0ru8szLXf-jV13qrDNsu55a6FnytZ1U7xqatfOrbC4axgPpSmTBNaRLrtdZWuPcYcU6n103ppknmBiQeBl6O/s1600/battery_cart_2016.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVqN6HPF5hh9oq5o5jjwg_ZGaVeOspqiijXaOwOhknqpfQLC3fboYxlExM0ru8szLXf-jV13qrDNsu55a6FnytZ1U7xqatfOrbC4axgPpSmTBNaRLrtdZWuPcYcU6n103ppknmBiQeBl6O/s320/battery_cart_2016.png" /></a></div><br>
Those of you who have read my <a href="http://inkarlslab.blogspot.com/2015/06/off-grid-mobile-power-supply-aka.html">June 2015 post</a> about the mobile battery cart will remember the Deka marine battery and the unpainted plywood lid. Since then I have painted the lid to match the rest of the unit and have replaced the Deka battery with two new 6 volt/220 ampere-hour golf cart batteries, purchased from the battery company I work for part-time. The batteries are both contained in ABS battery boxes so they are out of sight and any leakage that might occur will be contained. Having the batteries NOT readily visible is important, lest my landlord or, in the event of some emergency - firemen or EMTs, see them and get upset. Given the way this unit is constructed, it looks clean, organized and purposeful. One would NOT walk up to this and say "why do you have car batteries in your house?" Yes, it's clearly some sort of electrical device, BUT it's NOT scary looking. <br><br>
Note that since the golf cart type batteries are taller than a marine or car type battery, they will not fit inside the standard ABS battery boxes available at big-box stores like Wal-Mart or at auto parts places - you'll probably need to get them at a battery company as I did. Mine cost me between $7 and $8 apiece. The batteries - made by USA battery - will run between $130-$170 apiece, typically. USA battery uses really hokey "quick release" type battery caps that inevitably leak; since I bought my batteries at a battery shop I was able to get GOOD LEGITIMATE screw-type retrofit battery caps at nominal cost. They're well worth the investment. <br><br>
This system can provide about 2400 watt-hours of electrical storage - PLENTY for operating lights, amateur and shortwave radios, etc. in an emergency. Given about 300 watts of solar panel capacity, it could provide sustainable "off grid" operation. <br><br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-45501280405182482782016-01-01T14:23:00.001-08:002016-01-01T14:24:55.233-08:00Amateur (Ham) Radio and The December 2015 Tornadoes in Texas
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By now, most to the country has heard about the December 2015 tornadoes in Northern Texas as well as the flooding in Missouri and Mississippi. During that one evening, there was a swarm of 11 tornadoes in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. These caused major damage in Garland, as well as Rowlett and Sunnyvale, Texas. I personally know several folks in Texas who lived within a few miles of Garland and Rockwell, where most of the tornado action occurred. <br><br>
One couple, who are friends of mine and live in the Dallas/Fort Worth area, recently got their amateur (ham) radio licenses. They each bought themselves a Baofeng UV-5RV2+ model VHF handheld radio and had these tuned to one of the local RACES (Radio Amateur Civil Emergency Service) frequencies. On the night of the tornadoes, they had both their TV as well as their VHF radio going and were monitoring the situation. On their VHF radio, they heard "boots on the ground" reports of where the tornadoes were sighted and/or touching down as it was happening; the TV reports lagged significantly behind. Using amateur radio, they were thus able to monitor the situation closely and know whether or not they were in danger at any given time. As one person I know who was affiliated with Skywarn has told me, often the TV reports will come AFTER the storm has come and gone. <br><br>
On this blog I have stated in other posts how useful amateur (ham) radio can be during a civil emergency. Amateur radio can operate under conditions that wipe out both landline and cellular communications. Having access to amateur radio can mean the difference between having news, information, as well as emergency communications available - or not. <br><br>
For those who want to make sensible preparations for any number of different emergency scenarios, acquiring an amateur radio license, or at the very least, the equipment to monitor those frequencies, would be a worthwhile investment to make for 2016. The radio shown in the photo above can be bought new for under $40; the kit included the radio, the lithium-ion battery, a "drop-in" style desktop charger, and a stubby antenna. You will definitely want to get the better antenna - the one provided with the radio is almost worthless. The upgrade antenna - a Nagoya NA-771 model - as well as a 12 volt car adapter, together will cost an additional $15 or $20.<br><br> The larger battery will likewise cost a few more dollars, but clearly this simple setup is well within the doable range for many people. I recently got my brother the radio, the antenna, as well as the 12 volt car adapter, on eBay for a grand total of under $70. <br><br>
For those with more money to work with, one can get an Icom or Yaesu brand 2-meter handheld VHF radio for between $160 and $200. I personally own the Yaesu FT-270 and find it to be a superbly constructed and quite rugged 2-meter radio. <br><br>
FWIW.<br><br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-70332936208870323932015-09-12T21:56:00.001-07:002015-09-12T21:56:58.212-07:00Portable Generator Repair<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3MxxvQJg4GVAzRLxaTRmr6H3SuB6w-BXgGdfgwkKTqjHMVztxrcym2FuyzVhJPX6lqH_kGPNfUH__P8qiUQySxeh_jY4OYfvomKROQcmtUvmbCrnodG721P3ZaPjPUXM5uic0tQ4FERao/s1600/IMG_20150815_183619748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3MxxvQJg4GVAzRLxaTRmr6H3SuB6w-BXgGdfgwkKTqjHMVztxrcym2FuyzVhJPX6lqH_kGPNfUH__P8qiUQySxeh_jY4OYfvomKROQcmtUvmbCrnodG721P3ZaPjPUXM5uic0tQ4FERao/s320/IMG_20150815_183619748.jpg" /></a></div>
Some friends of mine own this Homelite LR4400 portable generator, seen in the somewhat blurry cell phone pictures herein. It was stored in a garage for several years and they asked me to check it out and do whatever repairs were needed. Using some fresh gasoline and some spray ether (starting fluid), I managed to get the engine to start and run. The main problem, besides a somewhat dirty carburetor, is there is no power output. <br><br>
With considerable effort, I found a PDF of the service manual with electrical schematic online. The manual contains a complete test procedure as well as coil winding resistance specs, disassembly instructions, etc. With that, I proceeded to take the end cover off the machine and check the electrical components. In the photo below one can see the rotor, stator coils and some of the wiring. <br><br>
<h3>A Quick Word About Generators In General</h3>
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All generators have what's called a field coil (a stator) and a moving coil (rotor). The rotor spins inside the stator. The stator often consists of 2 or more coils - one goes to the electrical outlets located on the end cap of the machine; the other serves as an "excitation winding" which feeds power to the rotor via a pair of carbon brushes which ride on copper slip rings. As power is fed to the rotor, it becomes magnetized. As the magnetized rotor is spun by the engine, it induces electrical current into the main stator winding, which powers the above-mentioned electrical outlets. In order to control the output of the generator under varying load conditions, either an electronic regulator or other circuitry must modulate the flow of power from the excitation winding to the rotor. There is usually a rectifier consisting of 2 or 4 diodes to convert the AC supplied by the excitation winding to DC to feed the rotor windings. Many generators also have a capacitor connected to the output of this rectifier to filter, or smooth, the rectified DC and thus provide the rotor with a "cleaner" signal. You may be thinking "Well, that's all great, Karl. Why are you telling me all this?" Quite simply - MANY electrical issues with portable generators are traceable to rectifier diodes, capacitors, or electronic regulator boards that have failed. Find and fix that problem and voila - your generator is back up and working again. <br><br>
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The photo on the left shows the parts mentioned above. Notice I am holding the filter capacitor in my hand - this component had an internal short circuit, which effectively prevented the rotor from getting any of the excitation current. With no current getting to the rotor coils, there is insufficient magnetic field to produce any current in the stator winding, and thus no power to deliver at the outlet. <br><br>
I tested the rotor coils, stator coils, rectifier and filter capacitor with a Klein brand Model MM200 multimeter purchased from a big box home improvement store for $49. All components except for the capacitor tested within acceptable range. <br><br>
A new capacitor is on order - we'll see what happens when I get it installed. <br><br>
<br>
<h3>Some Things To Consider</h3> </br>
If you are keeping a portable generator for any kind of grid-down emergency, extended power outages, etc., it might be a good idea to keep a repair manual and the spare proprietary electrical parts on hand for it. Since most small engines built after the 1970s have a solid state ignition, one should keep spares of those parts, too. Even if YOU can't or don't intend to do the repairs yourself, if you have a shop manual and parts, SOMEONE ELSE can for you. </br></br>
Generators should be periodically run and tested under load. An emergency or an important job is NOT the time or place to discover that the capacitor in your generator has deteriorated in storage and failed. Also, many generators rely upon weak residual magnetism in the rotor's laminated iron core to trigger the excitation winding - this residual magnetism fades over time with non use. If this process goes too far, a repair technician must "flash" the system using a battery to renew the magnetic field. This is NOT something you want to be doing in an emergency - and different generators have different procedures for doing it. Do it wrong, and you may ruin your generator. </br></br>
After use and BEFORE storing a generator, the fuel should be run out of the engine/tank/carburetor. If the gas tank doesn't have a drain cock, run the thing until it runs dry. Gasoline deteriorates and rapidly becomes such that small engines won't run on it. Also, gasoline as it deteriorates forms a gummy substance that will clog the carburetor's fuel and air passages. Once this happens, the only sure way to resolve this is to disassemble and clean the carburetor. So, as I'm running my gas tank dry, I go one step farther: Once the engine starts to sputter due to lack of fuel, I squirt some starting ether (spray carburetor cleaner works, too) into the air intake, which will enrich the fuel/air mixture and cause the engine to speed back up. Doing this a few times for a couple minutes will ensure that the carburetor float bowl and all its internal fuel passages are thoroughly cleaned and purged of gas. </br></br>
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karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-52686112199619304872015-06-07T20:01:00.000-07:002015-06-07T20:08:26.180-07:00New Blowgun Video<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBVLJrtKAalQ_xlZtOwdxeU_RN4kZOSO84p2ru0kF2DyyufwafuhOnk-ZGOHiyu-ZFlmaNcFqvVILc5V6FokX_tRtJ2fSPZIr4I9r7AgSzRd34oVr5zSmTpmxD2IP1xG8lV0C6aB_BN5aF/s1600/blowdart_04292015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBVLJrtKAalQ_xlZtOwdxeU_RN4kZOSO84p2ru0kF2DyyufwafuhOnk-ZGOHiyu-ZFlmaNcFqvVILc5V6FokX_tRtJ2fSPZIr4I9r7AgSzRd34oVr5zSmTpmxD2IP1xG8lV0C6aB_BN5aF/s320/blowdart_04292015.JPG" /></a></div><br>
Regular readers of my blog will remember my doing a post or two about blowguns. The "native blowgun" has fascinated me since I was a boy. As an adult I have played with both manufactured as well as home made ones off and on over the years. Within the last couple years, not only have I made improvements to my home made ones, but have also found a new use for them as a teaching aid. <br><br>
Each semester, I do a graphic demonstration of pneumatics principles for my students in Hydraulics and Pneumatics lab. I shoot darts into a board from across the room using a home made blowgun. It's quite amusing to see the "yeah, right - whatever" looks on students' faces as I take the blowgun out and load it with a dart. It's even more entertaining to see the looks on their faces and hear a few of them gasp when they see and hear the darts slam into the board. Most are left with no further doubts regarding the power even a few PSI of air pressure can deliver. <br><br>
To follow is a link to my latest YouTube video. This was shot at a high frame rate and slowed down so the flight and impact of the dart can be observed. <br><br>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95OvS6osaZA" target="_blank">InKarlsLab - Blowgun Video</a>
<br><br>
Enjoy :)
<br><br>
P.S. One of the most memorable remarks a student made to me in class early on one semester was "I wanna know when the darts come out." He had obviously heard about it from the prior semester's students.
<br><br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-1374755715019284362015-06-04T17:49:00.000-07:002015-06-04T17:49:50.765-07:00Handy DIY Tip - Ordinary Rubbing Alcohol As An Assembly LubricantEver tried to slide some tight-fitting shrink tubing or "spaghetti" tubing onto a wire or other object and had it bind about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way way on? This can be a real problem where one does NOT want to leave oil or soap residue on the objects being assembled. My solution for these situations: Ordinary rubbing alcohol from the drug store or grocery store. Rubbing alcohol will wet the inside of the tubing and the object itself, allowing the parts to slide more easily, but unlike oil or soap it will NOT leave a permanent residue. The alcohol will dry much faster than water, lessening the chances of corrosion or oxidation. <br><br>
I came up with this several years ago and have used it repeatedly since then. This works on tight-fitting hoses and fittings, heat shrink tubing or insulating sleeves for electrical cables, etc. <i><b>Obviously one wants to be careful about getting too much into electrical wiring where it might short things out or cause a shock hazard.</b></i> <br><br>
My boss today at the company I work at part-time was struggling with a home-made handle for an angle grinder. He had a piece of rubber insulation he had taken off a piece of scrap battery cable and was trying to slide this onto a large bolt that would form the new handle for the grinder. The rubber tubing had slid part way onto the bolt and jammed like a Chinese finger lock; he could not go any farther forward, nor could he even pull the thing back off the bolt! I suggested the rubbing alcohol trick, which worked quite well. The rubber tubing slid onto the bolt with little further adieu. <br><br>
Hope this helps someone. <br><br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-74698525560293573602015-06-01T23:41:00.001-07:002015-06-13T11:28:53.461-07:00Off-Grid Mobile Power Supply - a.k.a. "The Battery Cart"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4sw2Exsi6WSTyIgIAYK6xsFTz5V3uME9tdutoIzqMlcSJj6cu1pzTU2YZ8bdFsWXKbbadi2zPSea-IAVqCYKx7sf_sqlznMLYhuoyVqTVOZ-kqOoR9Ax73heYghUtaHd8_co-OwwG8tho/s1600/cover_on.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4sw2Exsi6WSTyIgIAYK6xsFTz5V3uME9tdutoIzqMlcSJj6cu1pzTU2YZ8bdFsWXKbbadi2zPSea-IAVqCYKx7sf_sqlznMLYhuoyVqTVOZ-kqOoR9Ax73heYghUtaHd8_co-OwwG8tho/s320/cover_on.png" /></a></div> <br><br><br>
My last post on October 4, 2014 shows a used, but still working, Deka deep cycle marine/RV battery that was given to me by my boss at the battery company where I work part-time. In that post I discussed plans to build a power supply using that battery. Herein I show what I did, and the rationale for doing so. <br><br>
The photo above shows the 90% completed unit - it just needs the lid and side mounts painted and some closure hardware installed. <br><br><br>
<b>First of all - why this took so long:</b><br>
It has been nearly eight months since I first obtained the battery and formulated plans to build this power system. This project has been in the works nearly that whole time due to time constraints posed by a busy work schedule, family issues, a relative nearly dying, as well as a medical scare of my own - which fortunately was a false alarm. During that time the various parts and pieces sat around for weeks, unassembled. <br><br><br>
<b>Rationale:</b><br>
I wanted a semi-portable off-grid power system to run my amateur (ham) radio equipment and other items such as lighting, small power tools, security systems and to recharge cell phones and tablet PCs or laptops during power outage emergencies, amateur (ham) radio Field Day events or camping trips. To fulfill these needs, it needed to have the following:<br>
1) Be self-contained. <br>
2) Have wheels, since this battery is heavy - weighing in at around 45 lbs. Two of them would of course weigh 90 lbs. <br>
3) Supply 12 volts DC at up to 200 ampere-hours capacity; the unit can hold two of these 100 ampere-hour batteries.<br>
4) Safety - be properly fused with any terminals or connections protected from casual contact with wiring or other objects. Also contain the battery(s) in such a way that any rupture of the case and resultant leakage of acid is contained and does not damage floors, car interiors, or pose a hazard to people or pets. <br>
5) Provide low voltage shut-off protection for the battery in the event it is left unattended with a load connected, thereby preventing damage to the battery through over discharge. This circuit shuts EVERYTHING down when the battery voltage falls to 10.8 volts. <br>
6) Provide standard Anderson "Power-pole" type connectors for interoperability with emergency crews from CERT, ARES and RACES. These connectors, located on the left-hand front of the unit are in the standard configuration for quick match-up with other people's equipment in a field situation. <br>
7) Provide standard 12 volt automotive "cigar" lighter receptacles for convenient use with commonly available 12 volt accessories as well as a pair of 5-way binding posts for use with alligator clips or even stripped wires. <br>
8) Be rechargeable with a standard automotive battery charger, car electrical system, solar panels, wind power, etc. <br>
9) Provide 120 volts AC for running small appliances, small power tools, soldering irons or powering "wall-warts" for laptop computers, etc. <br><br>
This system achieves all these requirements and provides convenient operation. <br><br><br>
The "battery cart" measures 21" w X 24" deep X 28" tall. It is on wheels removed from a moving dolley bought from Harbor Freight tools for $8 during one of their sales. This was far less expensive than buying the same wheels individually at a hardware store. It provides room for 2 Deka DC31DT 12 volt/100 ampere-hour deep cycle batteries to be connected in parallel for a total of 200 ampere-hours of capacity. Automotive "blade" type fuses protect the separate power inverter and 12 volt outlet circuits. The blue plastic boxes seen in the next photo contain screw-on post type battery terminals for rapid connection to an automotive type battery charger with standard charging clamps. Since the terminals are recessed deep within the blue boxes, which are standard electrical wall outlet boxes purchased at the local home improvement store, they CANNOT be accidentally touched or shorted against anything else. The battery in the third photo is enclosed in a standard ABS battery box designed for the purpose; this case has vents for the hydrogen gas to escape from the battery so it doesn't become trapped and pose an explosion hazard. The Anderson power-pole connectors are on the far left-hand side of the cart and are mounted on a Radio Shack black plastic project box. To the right of that are the control box with its 5-way binding posts, a "Harbor Freight Tools special" 400 watt power inverter for supplying 120 volts AC, and two 12 volt cigar lighter sockets purchased from an auto parts store. <br><br>
The photo below shows the innards with the cover removed. Note the USB charging devices plugged into the cigar lighter sockets. I routinely charge my cell phone and my pocket MP3 player this way. A relative of mine recently was quite impressed at being able to plug her cell phone directly into the battery cart, using a USB cable borrowed from me, after leaving her charger at home :) <br><br><br>
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The photo below this one shows the battery box - located in the compartment below the wiring, outlets, inverter, etc. <br><br><br>
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<b>A Word About The Control Box:</b><br>
The control box looks a bit lame right now. Originally I had intended to have the low voltage cutout board, its relay, and power ON/OFF switch on one metal "dual-gang" electrical outlet box. When I finally got around to building the low voltage cutout board and got an appropriate 30 amp relay (salvaged from a defunct air conditioner electronic board), I realized that everything would NOT fit into one box. These boxes are normally designed such that they can be stacked and screwed together with the screws that normally hold the covers on. Meanwhile the home improvement center in my area had completely changed its product mix and I could no longer buy the original type I had started with. In the interest of expedience, I bought the current issue item and vowed to eventually re-spin the whole design for the control box. So there it sits looking really funky - for now. <br><br>
The low voltage cut-out board is of my own design and uses an op-amp comparator circuit with a zener diode as a voltage reference. There is some hysteresis built in to prevent chatter, or oscillation, at the 10.8 volt trip point as well as to provide some electrical noise immunity. The board has a 30 amp relay as mentioned earlier; there is another 40 amp relay, salvaged from the same air conditioner the other relay came from, which is used to operate the power inverter. This additional relay is mounted in a gray single-gang box which can be seen behind the inverter in the "cover off" photo. <br><br>
The low voltage cut-out board is connected with a 5-pin "Molex" plug connector - making it an easy, solderless field replaceable module. <br><br>
The top blue light is the main power ON indicator. The bottom green lamp and toggle switch are for the power inverter. The inverter is controlled by the toggle switch to prevent it being powered when not needed; it draws close to 0.8 amps even in standby mode. The top left button is the main "power ON" button; the upper right-hand RED button turns the main power off. Since the inverter relay's coil circuit is interlocked through the main power/low voltage cutout relay circuit, the inverter CANNOT run if the main switch is OFF and/or the cutout board has tripped. <br><br><br>
<b>What Remains To Be Done:</b><br><Br>
1) Paint the cover<br>
2) Attach the side rails the cover mounts to; put cap screws or wing nuts to hold the cover to the side rails<br>
3) Add a solar charge controller and an Anderson Power-pole connector on the rear of the unit for solar panel hookup<br>
4) Re-spin the design of the control box - and the cutout board itself. I'm thinking of going to surface mount components on the next version. The current one is a through-hole "prototype" board. A properly designed printed circuit board could replace a considerable amount of the wiring in the box. <br>
5) Eventually upgrade the wheels on the cart - these work but tend to bog down in heavy carpet. <br>
6) Add the second battery. <br>
7) Add volt/ammeters on the front panel - this should be easier with a re-spun control box. <br>
8) Use an Anderson SB50 type plug connector to quickly connect/disconnect the battery for removal or service. Right now I have to unscrew the battery terminal nuts to disconnect the wires. <br>
9) Replace the "blade" fuses with self-resettable thermal breakers. The low voltage cut-out board, inherent in its design, provides the added benefit of locking out the system after a breaker trip until somebody comes along and manually turns the system back on. Therefore the system could NOT just sit there with a short or overload oscillating - turning on and off ad infinitum. <br><br>
<b>What I've Learned/What I'd Do Differently:</b><br><Br>
1) This thing is big and heavy - IF I had it to do all over again I'd build it for ONE battery and have any additional batteries as separate plug-in "modules". My two battery system would then be in two pieces, but each would be MUCH easier to carry and store. From the photos you can see it takes up a lot of floor space; when done it will go under a work table. But after months of stepping around this thing during its construction, I like the idea of being able to maybe keep the main unit available in the room and the second battery tucked away somewhere - but connected by a suitable cable to the main unit. A modular system might also lend itself better to carry in a smaller vehicle - the two pieces could be squeezed into whatever nooks and crannies were available, whereas a one-piece cart like I have requires a decent sized cargo space in the vehicle to carry. This CURRENTLY is NOT a problem for me since I drive a pickup truck, BUT if that changes it could be an issue later. <br>
2) Go with a 700 watt inverter - I went with the smaller 400 watt one to discourage using too much power, as even a 200 ampere-hour system will be quickly depleted using a 700 watt inverter. That said, it would be useful to be able to run a larger tool - like my heat gun - for SHORT PERIODS of time. <br><br><br>
I hope this write-up is helpful to someone and gives folks some creative ideas for designing their own off-grid electrical systems. <br><br><br><br><br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-11850185998156894132014-10-04T21:08:00.000-07:002014-10-04T21:11:20.814-07:00Of Battery Terminals and Devalued Currency</br></br>
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A couple weeks ago, I was given the 3-year old used battery shown in the photo to use for operating my ham radio equipment. In order to make this battery safer and more convenient to store and use in the house, I'm now in the process of making a wooden rack to hold the battery box, an old 400 watt power inverter I've had around for years, a pair of binding posts, and a pair of 12 volt autmotive type cigarette lighter power receptacles. In another couple paychecks I want to throw a couple wheels and a handle on the rack so I can conveniently move it around like a "hand truck". </br></br>
While I do NOT normally intend to use the inverter to anywhere near its rating, I still for safety want the terminals and wiring supplying it to be safe for the nearly 40 rated supply amps just in case it is needed, albeit breifly. I also want to be able to charge the battery without lifting the cover on the ABS battery box shown in the photo, so again the system needs to be able to handle the 25 or 30 amps my charger puts out at maximum. The threaded bolt type terminals on the battery are either 5/16" or 3/8" diameter. For all these reasons, the wimpy little crimp-on connectors sold at most stores will NOT work. Some stout copper lug type connectors are in order here. </br></br>
<b>Sticker Shock</b></br>
While visiting my local auto parts store and big box "home centers" to buy parts for this project, I have been horrified at prices on basic supplies nowadays. A copper "eye" type solder lug for #10 or #12 wire costs several dollars apiece nowadays. So I thought "Hey, a guy can make his own for less than 50 cents each out of soft-drawn copper tubing. I'll buy a foot of it and do that, and have PLENTY left over for future projects." Well, not so fast. They have stopped selling soft copper tubing by the foot; you now have to buy a whole roll of it for beaucoup bucks. The guy in the plumbing aisle suggested I use one of the 2 foot joints of 1/2" HARD-drawn copper pipe they sell for small repairs on water supply plumbing. On top of those costing nearly $5 EACH now, I was not keen on the hardened copper possibly breaking when I hammered part of it flat, nor do I want to fool around with the effort and expense of annealing it. [Annealing metal involves softening metal by heating it and allowing it to cool slowly.] As I started walking away, I heard the copper pennies rattling around with the other coins in my pocket and thought - there's my solution, for literally pennies :) </br></br>
<b>Pennies</b></br>
The plan is to solder my #12 gauge stranded wires to the pennies; the threaded terminal post on the battery will fit through the off-center hole drilled in the penny. The terminal nut on the battery will, of course, hold the whole assembly in place and make for a solid electrical connection. </br>
Tonight, I fired up the drill press and proceded to drill 4 pennies off center to use as terminal lugs. Imagine my surprise at what I found! See the photo below. On the left is a 1977 penny, which is solid copper - or at least an alloy mostly of copper. The one on the right is a 1986 penny; it is only plated with copper. The thin copper plating is merely a decorative covering for some cheap base metal. Another penny was dated 2001 - it too has the cheap junky metal core. </br></br>
I couldn't help but see this as yet one more example of how the US dollar has been devalued by 96% since the Federal Reserve Act was passed in 1913. (Don't take my word for this - look it up, do your own research, and you will see it's true) And indeed as they pump up the supply of fiat 'funny' money, inflation will only get worse. I've read people saying on the Internet how poor people should hoard pennies because they're more affordable than gold or silver, yet are potentially valuable for their copper during an economic crash. All I have to say about that is if you are going to try that strategy, you'd best make sure the pennies you're getting really ARE copper. The ones I have here will marginally serve for my project; they're not good for much else. </br></br>
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karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-35253927054446242492014-08-24T17:27:00.001-07:002014-09-01T17:47:35.427-07:00PVC Archery - Test of New Bow</br></br>
Readers of this blog have seen my previous posts regarding PVC bows. Due to life circumstances in general, coupled with a shoulder injury, I have not done anything with archery in over a year and a half. Today, that changed. </br></br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9TouXX_M3niJnJLtLBrunNVbfo7UBT5okAjpTwo8sLRKOWy4Z8Wkw87oyL7tXdopyDgDkcsAIJZidkklvCGd7bwhUJvkMajALaQBc59FNEiOkOD3fAlCVfIaoWOD5ZlImdkjcsbK2wOTV/s1600/bow_closeup_karlslab.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9TouXX_M3niJnJLtLBrunNVbfo7UBT5okAjpTwo8sLRKOWy4Z8Wkw87oyL7tXdopyDgDkcsAIJZidkklvCGd7bwhUJvkMajALaQBc59FNEiOkOD3fAlCVfIaoWOD5ZlImdkjcsbK2wOTV/s320/bow_closeup_karlslab.png" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3i_WujRWCNU94c34dOA5-BS4bGxN06ZDfy9JsZL2uBzGQ1XVMKR5_lgNFZ-z6EH2HEhOLPggYsTVlGbFkol9IJ2AeJIUlUw5TGyXzCHQH1VFKqSVrOtVY02pRv_7g_QWeUFa1Qlgf9tJO/s1600/bulls_eye_karlslab.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3i_WujRWCNU94c34dOA5-BS4bGxN06ZDfy9JsZL2uBzGQ1XVMKR5_lgNFZ-z6EH2HEhOLPggYsTVlGbFkol9IJ2AeJIUlUw5TGyXzCHQH1VFKqSVrOtVY02pRv_7g_QWeUFa1Qlgf9tJO/s320/bulls_eye_karlslab.png" /></a></br></br>
Using some tips I gleaned from Backyard Bowyer's YouTube channel, I quickly constructed this bow today and tested it out. </br></br>
All in all it worked pretty well; it needs some tweaks and modifications but it clearly IS possible to make a usable 35#-45# draw-weight bow out of standard schedule 40 PVC water pipe for a total materials cost of under $10. </br></br>
I'm using arrows bought at Wal-Mart for $3 a piece on clearance several years ago. These are good enough but need a little help, too - as the fletching was improperly glued on. I should remove the vanes and glue them on properly. Will discuss that in more detail in a future post. </br></br>
I used a 55" piece of 3/4" ID Schedule 40 PVC pipe and formed it with a heat gun using methods found on Backyard Bowyer's site and elsewhere online. Flattening the limbs of the bow as he describes definitely helps improve the curve as it is drawn, the force distribution, the overall performance, and keeps the bow from getting a permanent and unwanted bend in the middle. I left the middle 5" of the bow untouched with its original round cross section. </br></br>
After the pipe cooled, I shaped the ends for attaching the string, which consists of 350 Paracord. This is smaller than the 550 Paracord one normally reads about but works perfectly well on this light a bow. While Paracord is very durable and resists fraying, one definitely wants to put a serving on the string so that the nocking point is thick enough for a standard commercial arrow nock to grip. </br></br>
I strung the bow for a 6.75" brace height at the center point. </br></br>
The finished product has a measured draw weight of about 35# at 28 inches of draw. </br></br>
The arrows in the target shown in the above photo were shot from approximately 30'. No doubt as I build up strength and accuracy much greater distances will be possible. I also plan to use the ballistic chronometer in future tests of PVC bows. Stay tuned ... </br></br>
<b>A couple notes:</b></br>
Backyard Bowyer reshapes the middle "grip" section of the bow to improve shooting accuracy. Some folks say you don't need to do this and certainly, it is far easier to leave the handle section alone. This is the configuration I tried today. I noticed some issues with the arrow being deflected somewhat unpredictably when it would sometimes hit the bow and/or my hand. Clearly tapering the handle section and creating an arrow rest should help with this. </br></br>
Using the technology described above, one can get into archery for about $15-$20 - NOT including the $17 target shown in the photo. </br></br>
The piece of wire on the target in the bottom photo is for the vibration sensor used with the homemade ballistic chronometer. The sensor, which is actually the piezo buzzer out of an old computer, is duct taped to the lower left-hand side of the target. </br></br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-40530426905353183302014-08-19T16:24:00.000-07:002014-08-19T16:25:36.944-07:00Chickens - At 1 Month Old</br></br>
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In a recent post I mentioned that a buddy of mine and I were raising chickens from hatchlings. We had gotten these at a day old in early to mid July. They're now approximately a month old and have joined the adult hens in the coop. You can see them in the photo above. I apologize for the slightly blurry image - they were in constant motion and the light wasn't good for photography inside the coop. In the foreground there is a banded rock on the left, a blue cochin rooster to the right of that, and 2 partridge cochins behind them (to the right in the photo). I don't remember and can't see well enough in the picture to be sure of the ones behind the patridge cochins. </br></br>
All of them are still a bit shy around the adults, and will back away from the feeder and water when an adult approaches. There is definitely a "pecking order"; the adults get first dibbs on the food and water - when they're done the younger hatchlings can take what they want. </br></br>
The next photo shows me holding the blue cochin rooster - the detail is better because he wasn't running around :) For chickens that have been handle gently and petted a couple times a day every day since they were hatched, they STILL can be quite difficult to corner and catch. He put up a brief struggle when I caught him. </br></br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxwwrvAKLn3nWMfavfevlrkikVyYfG_bCXOzaQbbEzEo9hqqf1xveaP24Mo1dl9-96lEDglcPXIeATeFHeclqiF_ixTRjMNg-rL7YMkuFJ1LNBy_Sd8BH0aGX4AEKv1qNsMTxUGs6Lmxyk/s1600/me_holding_rooster_karlslab.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxwwrvAKLn3nWMfavfevlrkikVyYfG_bCXOzaQbbEzEo9hqqf1xveaP24Mo1dl9-96lEDglcPXIeATeFHeclqiF_ixTRjMNg-rL7YMkuFJ1LNBy_Sd8BH0aGX4AEKv1qNsMTxUGs6Lmxyk/s400/me_holding_rooster_karlslab.png" /></a></div>karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-52518785254591965952014-08-03T11:22:00.001-07:002014-08-03T11:29:47.797-07:00Homegrown Basil Herb - Flowering</br></br>
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For nearly a decade, I have grown culinary herbs for use in my kitchen. One of the easiest herbs to grow at home is basil. Not only is basil an integral part of Italian cooking, it also plays an important role in the garden. This fragrant herb, which is a delicious complement to tomatoes sliced and served with olive oil and fresh ground black pepper, also serves to help protect tomato plants from pests when grown right beside them. Indeed, tomato and basil plants establish a symbiotic relationship when grown together. One helps condition the soil chemistry to aid the growth of the other. </br></br>
After the main garden growing season, the basil may be dug up and transplanted into indoor planters and kept alive under full spectrum grow lamps all winter long. I have done this with basil, rosemary, and mint for several years. The basil and rosemary go into spaghetti and Italian soups while the mint makes for a great medicinal tea for stomach upsets or even just to relax with. </br></br>
An additional benefit of herbs is most of them produce attractive flowers during their growing season. One thing to be aware of is if you let them flower, often they will stop growing or even die back - so you might want to keep the flower buds trimmed off a portion of your plants to keep them growing and producing edible leaves all season.</br></br>
Clicking on the photo below will enlarge it so you can more clearly see the bloom. </br></br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqCnVbP7XT_c135qdKS7o-z3RSi5Qz1C43NqpoYzjIFmhYexOqrbg1gwyIBG9CGO5E7YYferiH7aZaIWjlcVNo8taD0rRqEkFpUkwPUpT_0uy0Zeajzfd5OiqfH_GPTvg1qLbmeAGFRPY9/s1600/basil_flower_head.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqCnVbP7XT_c135qdKS7o-z3RSi5Qz1C43NqpoYzjIFmhYexOqrbg1gwyIBG9CGO5E7YYferiH7aZaIWjlcVNo8taD0rRqEkFpUkwPUpT_0uy0Zeajzfd5OiqfH_GPTvg1qLbmeAGFRPY9/s400/basil_flower_head.png" /></a></div> </br></br>
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-85310281786427685522014-08-03T10:56:00.002-07:002014-08-03T11:35:43.898-07:00Raising Chickens
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTixJvzfZiGk3b_v8ozbqGinxYfKGLRI0UQ4C4onmlgJnKksayA-_ha73ZrwyAeLnxzU9Udwu65FUqnmhKGvo-zHVIGqIoPPvupCw77wrCUuctz-wy7KsfmmMoWDDGMg_FcuCBn1SU3hSy/s1600/chickens_4+days.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTixJvzfZiGk3b_v8ozbqGinxYfKGLRI0UQ4C4onmlgJnKksayA-_ha73ZrwyAeLnxzU9Udwu65FUqnmhKGvo-zHVIGqIoPPvupCw77wrCUuctz-wy7KsfmmMoWDDGMg_FcuCBn1SU3hSy/s400/chickens_4+days.png" /></a></div>
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A buddy of mine has raised chickens for a decade or more. Recently, he acquired 7 newly hatched chicks - including a blue cochin rooster, two partridge cochins, two black astrolorps, and two banded rocks - most of which can be seen in the photo. This was taken when they were approximately 4 days old. </br></br>
In another couple or three weeks they will be big enough to go back with the adult hens. Meanwhile they are being kept under an infrared lamp for incubation, as they are unable to maintain their own body temperature. During the day the adult chickens free-range on a several acre farm, enjoying life and foraging on all sorts of natural things as God intended. This definitely makes for a superior quality egg - the factory-raised stuff in the grocery store is tasteless and "sick" by comparison to the product my friend's chickens produce. The shells on these home-raised eggs is thicker than the store-bought ones, and the yolks tend to be a dark orange to even a red color in some cases. This is due to the minerals and nutrients they get through natural forage as opposed to the artificial corn feed most factory raised chickens get. The taste and texture of these eggs is like nothing else I have ever eaten prior to moving into an area that permits people to raise chickens at home. </br></br>
You can view some short video footage of the chicks I uploaded to my YouTube site - <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLBsFp4vNqY" target="blank">KarlsLabReport</a>. </br></br>
I plan to upload more pictures and video as these birds grow and develop. Please stay tuned!! </br></br>
Meanwhile - below is a photo of an adult partridge cochin hen. My apologies for the somewhat blurry image - she would not stay still long enough to pose for a decent picture. Note her beautiful coloration and the dark 'highlighting' around the edges of the individual feathers. Also note the feathers on her feet - cochins are interesting in that unlike other breeds, they have feathers covering their feet. The blue cochin rooster in the picture above is just starting to show the beginnings of feathered feet, too. Clicking on any image on this page will enlarge it for closer inspection. </br></br>
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karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-82914823797556625272014-07-27T12:39:00.001-07:002014-07-27T13:57:10.066-07:00UNIX Commands in Everyday LifeThought this was amusing:</br></br>
<a href="http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/sandwich.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/sandwich.png" /></a> </br></br></br>
This was taken from <a href="http://xkcd.com/" target="blank">http://xkcd.com/</a>karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6095307651266774811.post-72463252907568071342014-07-19T21:33:00.004-07:002014-07-19T21:33:58.604-07:00More Shortwave ResourcesSince my recent posting on shortwave listening resources online, some nice folks on Twitter directed me to more. These are as follows: </br></br>
<a href="http://www.short-wave.info"></a> </br></br>
<a href="http://www.shortwaveschedule.com">http://www.shortwaveschedule.com</a> </br></br>
<a href="http://www.reddit.com/r/shortwave">http://www.reddit.com/r/shortwave</a> </br></br>
<a href="http://swling.com/blog/">http://swling.com/blog/</a> </br></br>
<a href="http://makerf.com/">http://makerf.com/</a> </br></br>
As always, please leave me feedback if you know of any more good ones or if any of these become broken. Enjoy!
karlhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06510023697797636063noreply@blogger.com0